Author: Paul

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The Forgotten Island: Great Harbour Cay

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After spending a night at anchor outside the island, we motored gently though the imposing pass that had been cut straight through coral rock some 60 years prior. The marina at Great Harbour is tucked into a very impressive hurricane hole with outstanding protection from every direction. We checked in with customs/immigration (they gave us a full 6 months here) and after some quick showers, we proceeded to rent a car from Krum’s Grocery Store. It didn’t take long to realize this island was different than anything we had visited prior. It had beautiful grand buildings everywhere but they all lay in ruin. It turns out that in the late 1960’s some $38 million was invested into making this the an island paradise for the rich and famous. A top notch golf course was built with an extraordinary clubhouse. Jack Nicklaus was even hired to promote the island and given a house. (If you want to golf, bring your clubs and balls as the 9 holes are still maintained by the HOA).  A private club and a great beach resort was also constructed along with numerous condos, villas, and bungalows.  We were lucky to meet an American woman whose family had owned a home here since the glory days, and she told us stories about dinners at the club house and the everyone being “dressed to the nines.” This place had class that we just don’t see anymore. I wanted so very much to sip a Manhattan at the pool with the movie stars but alas we were left to explore post apocalyptic ruins. It was heartbreaking to see the the foundation of the clubhouse was still in good shape. It wasn’t a hurricane that caused its demise but neglect and abandonment.

I could still drink a Manhattan by the pool, but…

It was then I remembered the Bahamas resist change, they resist occupation, and they resist persecution. The Bahamas are meant to be free. Some have changed an island here or there but as I see time and time again, nature in the Bahamas is always ready to take back what is hers. When the losses become more then the rich can bear, the buildings fail, the concrete cracks and what’s left behind is the true magic of the Bahamas that we love so very much.

Club House
Golf course
Club House… decorated for Halloween complete with “body bags” (stuffed with leaves)

After viewing the old clubhouse ruins we made our way into the town of Bullocks Harbour where all the locals live. We drove up and down the streets with our useless guidebooks trying to find any restaurant that was still open, only to give up and pull into Brown’s Garden, which is not listed in any guidebook but clearly is the place to be in town. We all affectionately refer to it as “Ronnie’s place” after the proprietor Ronnie “the entertainer”. Ronnie wasted no time in serving up an ice cold round of Kalik beers for the very fair price of 3 for $10. He then asked if it was our first time in the Bahamas to which Naomi replied an enthusiastic, “Yes!” Seeing that we had ordered cracked conch Ronnie said to Naomi, “Come wit me m’am. I got someting to show yah”. I instantly knew what was up and grabbed a camera as we all piled out of the bar and across the street to the water where in a tiny little cove lied several thousand empty conch shells. Ronnie pulled on a old weathered rope and up came half a dozen conch. He pulled two off and expertly began showing Naomi how to remove and clean them.

Ronnie the Entertainer cleaning conch

Of course the part we were all waiting for came when he removed the translucent crystaline style from the conch’s body and offered it to Naomi. It looks like a piece of clear spaghetti. Naomi looked hesitantly to us and we reassured her that everybody does it. She slurped it down as we all giggled. While we have all tried it before, we didn’t mention that it’s widely referred to as an aphrodisiac by the locals. Ronnie was living up to his name the entertainer, and well, the food doesn’t get much fresher. 

Hubert’s fish shack

The next local we encountered was Hubert “Da Fishman”. Hubert was part entrepreneur and part hustler. He rented boats, fishing guides, sold beer and tobacco (only when they were processing the catch) and had all the best fresh fish on the island. He was also located about 100 yards down the dock and became pretty good entertainment every evening when he would arrive with his gang of fishing boats and fishermen. Most days they would show up with piles of conch, lobster, snapper, hogfish, yellowtails and more – all available at very reasonable prices like the lobster at $12 a pound tails only. Dave and even more so Naomi were instantly captivated by this and asked us to cook some up for them. So I ordered up three pounds of lobster tails from Hubert. Hubert grumbled to one of his guys who tossed up a bag and weighed it. Hubert, not liking what he saw, grumbled something about a new scale and came over to inspect it. Now we were all thinking the tare was off and we would probably loose a tail. On the contrary, after inspection Hubert ordered up another small tail for us and we promptly paid him. I didn’t weigh them but it sure as heck felt like more than 3 pounds to me and came out to 6 tails. We broiled up 4 tails with creole herb butter and used the remaining two to make lobster scampi which was pretty darn tasty.

We were treated very well at the marina in addition to Hubert having fresh fish most days. Monday and Wednesday the dockmasters took orders for fresh bread. The banana bread was the best any of us have ever had. There was also pizza night where wonderful pizzas were delivered piping hot right to your boat. But the best value was the $10 Friday night BBQ where chicken, ribs, steak, corn, mac and cheese, and peas in rice were served up in generous portions to cruisers and pretty much everybody else on the island that had access to cars or even bicycles. It was all great, but we loved the mac and cheese with its spicy kick. Yep that’s right when you add some tangy Louisiana hot sauce to mac and cheese something truly magical happens.

While we still had the car for another day, we drove the length of the island. On the northeast side there are more club ruins. An unassuming driveway takes you uphill to the walls and patios of an oceanside club where the Rat Pack hung out and where it was said that the french owner/bartender liked to serve drinks while naked. He was french after all. The only guest there now was a Bahamian racer snake!

Sinatra’s old haunt
One of a few native snakes

Nearby, a pullout led to a small sandy beach with rocky cliffs and a cave.  The contrast of this landscape compared to the Abacos was startling! And of course, where there is a rock to climb, we must climb it.

The cave
View from the top of the rock

Continuing our tour of the beaches, we also explored the Beach Club – an outdoor restaurant and bar overlooking yet another beautiful beach and serving surprisingly good and fresh food.

We headed south towards the sand bars near Haines Cay. The paved road ends with a several-inch drop off to a rough, rocky dirt road that makes you question if the path is actually intended for cars. As usual, Lindsey was driving as she has mastered “left to live” driving and doesn’t get too freaked out by the massive potholes or it seeming like everyone is on the “wrong” side of the road. However, she didn’t have faith that the little car could handle some off-roading.

“I don’t know if I can take the car down this!” Lindsey said.

“The lady said to take the dirt road all the way to the beach!” Dave urged.

“Just do it!” I chimed in.

Nervously, slowly, she proceeded forward while the rest of us volunteered steering directions to try to avoid the divots, rocks, and bushes scraping the car’s paint. Amazingly, we only bottomed out once and didn’t knock any parts off the car. The road ends at the mouth of Shark Creek, where a huge hammerhead was once tagged. The beach itself is clear water over shallow white sand, and at low tide many sand dollars and mysterious creatures of the sea can be found. The snorkeling at Haines wasn’t great (sounds like Hawsknest is better) but we did see a huge barracuda and a lobster.

Tailgating after surviving the drive down the dirt road
Shelling Beach at Shark Creek
Sea cucumber
Mystery creature – guesses include sea pickles and moss animals
Happy mom & dad

After returning our rental car to Krum’s, we had to find new forms of transportation since the marina is a bit of a walk from many of the restaurants and attractions. We took to the dinghy to explore what is left of the former drug dealer island Cistern Cay.  Putting 4 adults in the inflatable dinghy is not usually something we do, and will try to avoid repeating, but we all made it there safely though perhaps a little wet! We forgot the map of course, so we didn’t find the little blue hole or the wrecked plane, though we heard the plane isn’t much to see. The drug dealer island was pretty interesting though – there are ruins of homes with great views, an extensive road system, old cars, and even a go-kart locked in a garage. However, the joke has become, “What they call ‘ruins’ in the Bahamas, we would just call ‘abandoned’ in Tennessee!”

4 people in a little dink…

We had dinner at Carriearl, a boutique hotel that offers rides from the marina to their restaurant. We took the ride with another couple and enjoyed talking with them over drinks while we waited for dinner.  The house that was converted into the hotel and restaurant was once owned by fashion critic Mr. Blackwell. Carriearl is run by a British couple with a few employees, but they seemed to having a hell of a night. The place was busy, and the power went out a few times, though hardly anyone batted an eye as this happened. However, the water wouldn’t turn back on, so now, in addition to serving drinks, taking orders, giving rides, and supervising the cook, the owners were  also running from pool-to-bathroom with buckets of water to flush the toilet! Despite the chaos (and varying quality of our dishes), the ambiance of this restaurant is really fantastic and we had a lot of fun.

Good drinks at Carriearl

The marina also offers bikes. Lindsey and I took these into town one afternoon on a search for beer and food – turns out if you are willing to ride into town and up and over the hill, you can buy a 6-pack for $10 rather than pay Hubert $24! By the time we found the beer, had snacks while watching the sunset at Coolie Mae’s (it took a while… island time, mon… they were making the conch fritter batter fresh), and ordered conch salad at Ronnie’s, it had gotten dark. Really, really dark.

Lindsey assessed the situation. “OK, we weren’t planning on being on out past dark…. so I didn’t bring the headlamps. And now it’s dark AND raining. So this should be a fun ride back, right?” My wife has a twisted idea of fun. Time for another one of Lindsey’s death marches I muttered under my breath. 

We put our food in the baskets, got on the bikes and started pedaling furiously through town. There are some infrequent street lamps to light the way – and the potholes.  Lots and lots of potholes… some deep… some really deep. “Hole!” we yelled to one another. “Car!” If the car was on our side of the road, we’d scurry into the grass or bushes to avoid being hit. If the car was coming the opposite way, we’d use the shadows cast by the headlamps to scope out the upcoming potholes. Lindsey giggled most of the way home. Like I said, twisted idea of fun. 

Having spent a week in Great Harbour, we made some friends at the marina. We were docked between two boats with chefs, one of which was a fishing boat, so we got spoiled with wahoo sashimi and sushi. We got tips for the rest of our trip and got to hear some wild stories about working on mega yachts… especially ones that the owners sink for fraudulent insurance claims! Another neighboring boat was Jack Nicklaus’s yacht, and it sure looked like he was onboard, though we only saw the crew step foot on land. Nicklaus himself may have been out fishing on one of the yacht’s three flats fishing boats.

Lindsey with Jack’s boat

We enjoyed walking up and down the docks, spotting critters – lots of sergeant majors, little fish, an occasional nurse shark, barracudas – even an octopus! (What we didn’t enjoy was climbing up and down the docks – our boat is low and the docks are high, so our climbing moves got a workout at low tide!)

Despite the magic of this place, it is not all that popular for cruising boats to stop here. (To clarify, in our world, “cruisers” or “cruising” refers to people socially boating on sailboats or trawlers, to distinguish from racing boats, not to be confused with cruise ships!)This adds to its allure as we love to have a place to ourselves or shared with only a few other cruisers. The crazy part is – just to the north are the Stirrup Cays, where cruise ships send folks to enjoy the Berry Island beaches with hundreds of other people – while just a few miles south, you can have the beaches all to yourself!

Leaving through the cut

We set sail from the marina, planning to round the Stirrup Cays to head south along the eastern side of Great Harbour. A dolphin jumped in our bow wake and a giant loggerhead turtle floated by, ensuring this forgotten island wouldn’t be forgotten by us.

(Interested in visiting Great Harbour? Here are a few other resources:

https://www.greatharbourcaymarina.com/history.html

https://isimpo.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/great-harbour-cay-in-the-berry-islands-bahamas-2/

http://www.consultresearch.com/GHC2.htm 

Enjoy!)

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Wandering: Great Guana to Man O War

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After dropping Dave off at the Treasure Cay airport we were a bit bummed out as is always the case when a crew member has to leave. We don’t believe in goodbyes though; it’s always “See you later!” We took our time prepping the boat and pulling out of the biggest slip I think we have ever had. As we exited the marina into the  baby blue waters of the Sea of Abaco we were quickly confronted by a disappointing reality. Fairly strong winds with 3-4′ of chop had us pinned into the the Treasure Cay Marina. We were only trying to go a few miles to Great Guana Cay but it was a long, wet slog dead to wind.

Nippers Beach Bar
Beach at Nippers on Great Guana Cay

Our goal for the rest of our trip was to be in the water as much as possible, either snorkeling or diving (but we were about to discover that the East winds make this not as easy as we would hope). Based on the guides and maps, we thought there might be something to see near a cut at the southern end of the island, but when we tried to anchor there, we could not get the anchor to dig in after about 4 tries. So much for our quiet, secluded anchorage – we moved north to the crowded anchorage near Grabbers bar. The holding was fine but between the wind moving west and the constant ferry and rental boat traffic, this was the least comfortable anchorage we stayed in.

To prep for scuba diving, we decided to dive in the 10 feet under our boat to test our gear and brandy new scuba compressor. I got to see my first green mantis shrimp, which made the dive totally worth it but otherwise there wasn’t much else to see. If you don’t know what a mantis shrimp is, check out this video.  They are pretty much the most badass creature in the ocean.

The next day it was too windy to head out to the reef, so we took the dinghy ashore to explore. While getting ready to head out, we had a little reef shark swimming around the boat – our first shark sighting!

We had heard a lot of people talk about the Nippers Bar.  Nippers advertises a Sunday “pig roast,” which we were really excited about until we heard there is no roasting pig – just a buffet that includes pork and a lot of drunk partiers. We heard it can still be a cool, more peaceful place on other days of the week so we went to check it out.

Nippers Bar Great Guana
Nippers!

On our way to Nippers we noticed a sign on a tree saying “Poisonwood – No Touch”! WTF is that, we thought as we quickly googled it. Turns out the Bahamas have two rather nasty poisonous trees the aptly named Poisonwood and the Manchineel.  Poisonwood is similiar to poison ivy or posion oak while Manchineel is more toxic but also less common. Suddenly the rash Dave had on his leg made sense, he must have brushed up against poisonwood on one of our hikes. “So much for the forests being tame here,” we thought.

A short walk later we had made it over to the Atlantic side where we easily found Nippers. Nestled on bluff overlooking the ocean and a nice white sand beach, Nippers has plenty of loud music, seating and a pool. The drinks and food are on the expensive side. We hung out for a couple hours but weren’t really feeling the vibe and left for a walk around town in the early afternoon.

Nippers Beach Bar
View From Nippers

We wandered about for a bit before looking for a place to get some food. Naturally we picked a place as far away as possible, Mermaids, and went off hiking figuring we would see more of the island on the way. We hiked for a pretty long time through rolling hills dappled with vacation houses. Everything on Great Guana was pretty upscale (but not without herds of cats and roosters hanging out in some yards). Finally a nice lady in a golf cart stopped and offered us a ride which Lindsey promptly shot down.

“Gee babe, whats your problem with a free ride?” I asked as the golf cart sped away.

“We are here to hike!” she winked.

“True but there’s no shame in taking a free ride and we’ve been going for a while now” I quipped.

“OK, next one.” she said. The next golf cart to offer a ride had two very nice and maybe tipsy guys in the front. We jumped on thinking this was gonna be fun, but we rounded a single corner to find we were at Mermaids after about a 15 second ride. We all had a good laugh at what had to be the record for the shortest hitchhike ever.

Great Guana
Mermaids On the Rocks

Mermaids was really beautiful. They had a gorgeous pool on a rocky cliff overlooking the sea and a beautiful outdoor dining area. They also had a dress code with prices to match. Surveying the scene we quickly decided we weren’t really going to be welcome in our salty, worn, paint-splattered clothes.  We prefer the locals hangouts anyways. So we started our hike back across the island. About 10 minutes in a local stopped and offered a ride. “Yes, please!” I said before Lindsey could think twice. Turns out our driver was turned away at Mermaids for failure to wear shoes. We zipped back to Grabbers bar where our dinghy was beached. We looked around Grabbers but decided dinner on the boat was best.

Great Guana just didn’t have a vibe we were into. Turns out the island is overshadowed by Bakers Bay resort. From what we researched and heard through the grapevine, Bakers Bay is the most upscale resort in the Abacos where all the famous people hang out. They even have a marina which was made private a few years ago to keep riff raff like us out – or as we prefer to think of it, keep riff raff like them in. Still though, the resort provides around 1000 much needed jobs to the locals so I guess its not all bad. We would have left after just one day but were heard there were some dive sites at the north end of island.

We were ready for diving the next day and the wind had seemingly calmed down. We loaded the dinghy up and began the slow trek up past Bakers Bay to the dive site. Unfortunately when we got there the waves were breaking over the reef and after several attempts to find a good spot, we aborted and went snorkeling at the rocks off of Bakers Bay beach. The snorkeling was ok – we were excited to finally see some coral, healthy coral too! – but the tidal current prevented us from getting to the really good parts. We did see a stingray without a stinger and a nurse shark, relaxing on the bottom under a ledge – but typical Lindsey… even though I kept pointing to the shark just a few feet away from me, she never figured out what I was trying to point to and didn’t even see it. On the ride back, we decided to try another spot.

We motored down to the anchorage at Fowl Cay Marine Reserve but alas it was going to be too rolly for an overnight spot, even by our lax standards, so we continued to the north side of Man O War Cay.  The next day, we assessed our sunburns and decided wearing our heavy scuba gear might not be the best plan. We grabbed our snorkel gear and took the dinghy up to Fowl  and Hawksbill Cays.

Foul Cay Marine Reserve
Paul at Fowl Cay

The ocean was still very choppy and the current was very strong but we came up with an ingenious plan to see the reef. We parked the dinghy in the lee of a small cay and swam hard across the cut to the next small cay. We then hiked over the rocks to the the ocean side and swam out to the nearby reef thereby using the cay to defeat the current. This allowed us to have a great snorkel in less than ideal conditions. When we were done all we had to do was swim over to the cut and drift back to our dinghy. Fowl Cay turned out to be a great stop, even with the weather preventing us from seeing the reef farther out. We still got to see plenty of snapper, a sea turtle, a grouper, lots of small fish, and great coral – purple sea fans, brain and horn corals.

Man O War Cay Sign

That evening and the following day we went to explore Man O War Cay. Our boat being parked on the extreme north end of the island meant that we would be able to stretch our legs before getting to town. Man O War turned out to be a beautiful very laid back island. It has deep religious roots so alcohol has only recently become available at one restaurant. The “roads” are narrow and sandy, and lined with vegetation. The town is small with several shops selling local goods like hand carved boat models and locally made canvas bags. There is a long tradition of boat building on the island and we saw that they are still making fiberglass boats to this day. If your looking for a really quiet island to get away from it all this is the place. If you want to have some drinks with rowdy sailors or 5 star accommodations, this is not the place.

Man O War Cay
“The Queen’s Highway” leading to town on Man-o-War Cay

Man o war cay
Fiberglass boat molds.

Man-o-Way cay church
Church on Man-o-War Cay

We made friends with random cats and dogs that walked with us  through town, checked out the fish hiding under the docks, and had a delicious conch burger and ice cream at Hibiscus Cafe. We laughed that almost everyone here has the same last name – Albury. We chatted for a while with a homeowner, an American who spends a few weeks here each year.

Lindsey enjoying somebody’s front yard

Man O War Cay
Old Boat Built on Man O War

Marina at Man O War Cay

We snorkeled around the rocks at the anchorage, spotting some large french angelfish, barracudas, and a moray eel. It seemed like we were the only boat staying here for more than one day, so we decided to head to Hopetown next and see what all the fuss was about.

This photo is taken by AllWinner's v3-sdv
Discarded conch shells at Man-O-War Cay

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Life on the Boat Q&A Part 2

 

Lindsey getting her Yoga on.

You can read Part 1 here for the Q&A that we did with the Newly Salted blog. Here’s part 2 to answer the rest of your questions!

Is Paul not going to shave for the whole trip? How can I grow a beard like that?

Lindsey: He’s not going to shave. His trick to his wildman look is to do next to no maintenance on it. When he got his haircut, he let the guy cleanup the edges of the beard but wouldn’t let him trim it. If your own mother calls you “Sasquatch Face,” you know you’ve reached your goal.

How do you shower on the boat?

Lindsey: There are more options than you think! We have MSR water bladders that have an attachment that allows it to be used as a solar shower. We actually don’t use this much though because 1) I forget to lay it out in the sun and 2) it’s black but not insulated so it heats up  but doesn’t hold heat until after dark very well. Right now this is an outdoor activity but we do have a drain in our head (bathroom) floor that could be hooked up for indoor showering. Most often we use Walgreens Rinse Free Body Wash and Shampoo, which requires minimal water (less than a quart for 2 people). We’re pretty sure the shampoo is just a watered-down, more fragrant version of the body wash, so we’ll probably buy just the wash in the future. The other options include jumping into the sea to bathe or using the cockpit washdown pump – this uses sea water but the pressurized hose is great for hair washing.

What do you eat on the boat? Do you cook?

Lindsey: We have a 3 burner stove and oven, plus a fridge with a mini-fridge-sized freezer, so we eat pretty similarly to what we eat at home. When we first left Florida, we didn’t buy much meat cause we were hoping to fish a lot. It’s been better lately, but we weren’t very successful with fishing in the beginning and wished we’d brought more meat initially. When we grocery shop we try to do so for 3 weeks at a time – so we pack the freezer, buy vacuum sealed meats if we can, and buy long lasting veggies like onions, mini peppers, and cabbage. Certain grocery items can be expensive here, especially in the less populated areas (we’re talking $3 for the can of green beans that costs $0.89 at Walmart; $8 for Oreos; we haven’t even really seen deals on locally caught fish), so we’d recommend stocking up as much as you can in the US. It seems that some people stock up on weird, canned foods that they never normally eat, so I tried to avoid that – but I did buy one can of chicken kind of as a joke. We haven’t eaten it.

Did Lindsey take makeup on the boat?

Lindsey: I did. On the ICW, I’d put makeup on after showering at a marina. In the Bahamas I’ve worn mascara twice.

Paul: Does sunscreen count? Cause she uses a lot of it.

How can you stand to be near your spouse that much in a tiny space?

Lindsey: Soooo many people have asked me this, but for us this wasn’t really a change. When we met, Paul lived in an apartment so small he couldn’t have a couch. I shared a 3 bedroom house with 3-4 other people. When Paul moved to PA, we traveled for work together during the week and stayed in my parents’ house on weekends. Then for 5 years we rented an apartment that the previous tenant described as “maybe not big enough for 2 people.” Not that I don’t dream about living in a place where someone can get out of bed without having to climb over the other person, but we’re pretty used to constantly being in each other’s bubbles.

Paul: I think we both realize that a little bit of discomfort is part of the price we pay to have some really awesome adventures. If everything was easy and comfortable it wouldn’t be much of an adventure.

Why won’t you answer your phone?

Lindsey: We bought a sim card for BTC data but don’t pay for minutes or texts. We use WhatsApp, Google Voice, and occasionally Skype. Google Voice rings if I’m on the computer, but it doesn’t ring on my phone – I just see the missed call later, so that’s why I don’t answer.

When are you going to sail to Texas?

Lindsey: It was a real possibility when we were considering taking the boat into the Gulf of Mexico and up the Tenn-Tom canal to TN, but we now have reasons to keep the boat in FL this year – so we’ll see. 🙂

How many times a day do you sing “I’m On A Boat?”

Lindsey: At the beginning of the trip, at least 8, but now I’m probably down to 3.

Have you seen any cool birds?

Lindsey: Bird sightings on the ICW were awesome. In the Bahamas it’s been mostly sea gulls, cormorants, and mourning doves. There is a black bird with bright orange on his wings I’ve been seeing lately. And this little guy was pretty friendly:

Paul: We have yet to track down the elusive Bahamas Parrot.

How’s the sailing?

Lindsey: Pretty good! We cruise around under sail most of the time. We’ve been told the Abacos aren’t the easiest part of the Bahamas, navigation-wise, but I wouldn’t call it difficult (for the most part, we actively avoid passes near reefs or shallow spots requiring super accurate visual navigation). I’d say its much more enjoyable sailing conditions than the Chesapeake. A lot of days we sail all day on a single tack which is pretty relaxing.

What is it like in the Bahamas? Weather? Food? 

Lindsey: If you’re nervous about foreign travel, I would highly recommend the Bahamas as a start, because I don’t think there’s anything here that’s really going to give Americans culture shock. Vendors take Bahamanian or US dollars (1:1 street value). People are friendly, it’s easy to travel via water taxi, it’s freakin’ gorgeous here, and there’s so much to see under the water. There are so few people outside the two major cities (Nassau and Freeport) that everywhere we go has a nice small town community feel to it and it’s truly beautiful. A lot of the take-out food places and restaurants seem to have mostly fried food, and it isn’t cheap – fish and chips may cost you nearly $20, and if you do find bbq, or grilled, or steamed food, it’s not surprising to see stuff in the $20-40 range. Variety of restaurants is probably what we miss most from home. Our first few weeks here were nothing but sunny, but lately a lot more rain and scattered storms have been rolling through, and the Atlantic seas have been rough. Temps have been 70s-80s. Everyone says it’s been an unusual weather pattern this year (no surprise) and that summer is the best and calmest, outside of hurricanes. We really like it here. I can see the appeal of island hopping in the Caribbean where you are going to see more culture changes from island to island, but there’s so much more of the Bahamas we want to see.

Lindsey Petting a Ray

 

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Our Guide to Great Abaco

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Our journey from Green Turtle to Treasure Cay, Great Abaco was uneventful. The temperature was in the 70s, sunny but surprisingly cool in the shade. After passing through the Whale Channel (easily done with only a few feet of swell and long periods), we turned to head for Treasure Cay. Treasure Cay is not an island, but a resort with a marina, anchorage, and vacation homes on Great Abaco Island. It’s probably the largest resort in the Abacos. It’s about a 40 minute drive north of Marsh Harbour, the Bahamas’ 3rd largest city (~5000 people).

Whale Cay from the Atlantic side on a calm day.

The first thing you might notice entering the channel to Treasure Cay are the signs warning you that a cable blocks the channel after 10pm, after which you need to radio for entry. Once in the marina, you will see that the gates to the docks close at 1am, security guards are on patrol, and the marina advertises itself as the “safest.” What in the world could be so bad here that made all this security necessary?! The Bahamas overall comes across as an extremely safe and welcoming place, so we were a bit confused. From our Googling, it looks like some years ago there were several boat thefts in a very short period of time, so we’re guessing that for the sake of the resort’s reputation, they wanted to make sure this would not happen again and took it to the extreme.

What Treasure Cay has going for it is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world – white, white sand and blue, blue water. It has a restaurant at the beach, an Italian restaurant, and a large bar with food stands and a pool at the marina. There is an onsite shopping center with cell phones, car rentals, bakery, and gift shops. There are also some massive Tarpon hanging around the fish cleaning station.

Paul and the Tarpon, having a stare-off

 

The idyllic beach at Treasure Cay

What Treasure Cay doesn’t have going for it is that it just didn’t seem very exciting. We had heard we’d just missed the crowd – all the sailors hiding from a month of bad weather had departed the week prior – but this was still spring break time, and the place just didn’t seem that lively. To be fair, everyone at Green Turtle kept telling us how it was the busiest March ever and we couldn’t figure out where everyone was hiding, or maybe our idea is busy is just different from the island version of busy – a definite possibility. The other thing Treasure Cay doesn’t have going for it is their not-so-nice bathrooms. Now, I’m not really complaining, because they have showers and my boat doesn’t! It just seemed strange that for a place that comes across as fairly upscale, the bathrooms would be dirty or malfunctioning. Plus, the marina showers were in the same restroom used by the bar, and it’s just a little awkward to be naked with drunk people coming in from the bar. Without a rental car you are pretty much stuck on the resort property since it’s a heck of a walk to anything. It didn’t matter to us though as we specifically came to Treasure Cay to rent a car and go exploring!

Lindsey driving on the wrong side.

A large amount of cars in the Bahamas are used imports from Japan, and our Honda rental was no exception. What does this mean? Well, the steering wheel is on the right hand side and the GPS nav system is hopelessly in Japanese and has you positioned somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic. Some of you used to driving on the right side of the road might find this opportunity to drive on the left at highway speeds with no navigation terrifying, but we found it to be great sport. Plus, passengers got to yell our “left to live motto” at every turn. Over the next couple of days we explored a bunch of places on the island of Great Abaco, a.k.a. “the mainland.” Funny thing is, when I asked locals what there is to do here, the most common suggestion was to hop a ferry to another cay, so we were somewhat on our own to find the fun. Here is our summary of the spots from north to south.

Treasure Cay Blue Hole

This inland blue hole is not on the resort property and therefore open to all. You can find it a few miles north of the resort turn off on the left hand side. If you hit the airport you went too far. There is a small sign that denotes the turnoff. The blue hole is located several miles from the sea with a diameter of about 100′ and a depth of 254′. It is luxuriously filled with copious amounts of clean clear freshwater. While a bit erie due to its depths it is very safe with no currents or marine life. Its a unique and free experience that we would rate a must see. (On our visit, we had the added bonus of a wild fire having just roared through the area, so there was still smoldering underbrush and burning telephone poles – but luckily no houses appeared to be damaged. While we’ve been in the Bahamas, it seems there is always at least one part of Great Abaco on fire).

Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour is the 3rd largest town in the Bahamas at a whopping 5000 people, but it feels like it has half that population. It is, however, the main supply point for all of the Abacos. Food and goods are significantly cheaper here and they have several large grocery stores with reasonable (almost mainland America) prices . We like to shop at Maxwells grocery and pick out things we wouldn’t normally buy at home, like lamb chops and goat. When we are done we call a cab on VHF 6 and for $6 they take us to the Union Jack dinghy dock.  At the dinghy dock, little kids hang out, swim, and play on boats.  They’ll also gladly help you tie up, unload groceries, or carry your luggage, and although they accept tips, they seemed at least equally interested in snacks. The Abaco Asian Market is fun stop where you can buy pre-made food or ingredients for your own dishes. Beware: If the guy says the hot sauces are “not too hot,” he means “not too hot if you like really hot things!” The Coin Laundry in town is closed so we do laundry at Harbour View Marina. We always anchor out because the holding is good in Marsh, but the cheapest marina in town is Marsh Harbour Marina. On calm days it can get very hot in Marsh and swimming is not recommended due to water quality. There is a large hardware store called Standard Hardware and many other shops. Marsh gets a bit of a bad rap from locals for being the big dangerous city, but we had no issues and while not as fun as many of the other islands there are still a few interesting things to do.

Mermaid Reef Marsh harbour
Mermaid Reef

Mermaid Reef is a small artificial reef just outside the harbor with lots of fish. Its a good spot to cool off or take small children but not something we would seek out. Restaurant-wise, Marsh is home to the only fast food in all of the Abacos – KFC! While not exciting normally, after a few months on a boat some good cheap (by island standards) fried chicken is a welcome relief on your way to the grocery store. Mangoes was our favorite restaurant. Wally’s was good as well and the most upscale. Snappas is somewhat of a hangout because of their draft beer (a rare find here) and good food. Jib Room at Marsh Harbour Marina has a guy who limbos under a flaming limbo stick after Wednesday and Saturday dinners. Jake’s has great reviews but we didn’t find it exceptional. We were told Colors by the Sea has great food but haven’t made it there. If you are into shopping, Marsh has a variety of small gift shops and clothing stores. Liquor stores abound; our favorite is right behind Harbour View Marina but selection varies. Lindsey is in love with the banana rum. Beer and wine are expensive but rum is pretty reasonable. Marsh is not really a place we go except for supplies.

Mermaid reef Marsh Harbour
2 Sergeant Majors at Mermaid Reef

Little Harbour

Bronze Artwork at Pete’s Gallery.

Going south the next stop is Little Harbour. We highly recommend visiting this idyllic harbor by either car or boat – just be aware it’s a bumpy ride by car. It is is home to Johnston’s Bronze Art foundry and Pete’s Pub. The bronze art is world class and really spectacular. It’s a must see.

Pete's Gallery little harbor Abaco
Turtle Sculpture

Cherokee Sound

Lindsey and Dave on the longest wood dock in the Bahamas!

Cherokee is only a few miles from Little Harbour but it is outside of the Sea of Abaco and too shallow for most boats to enter, therefore few cruisers know about it. It is however our favorite spot in all of Great Abaco. Home to the largest wooden dock in the Bahamas at ~700 feet long, the extremely shallow bay offers beautiful crystal clear baby blue water and fluffy white sand that you can walk in for about 1000′ offshore. The town is very laidback with a small but well appointed grocery store (including reasonably priced souveniers – and fireworks!). If you want a spectacular beach day this is the place to do it.

Baby conch!

Lone fisherman in the knee deep water

Schooner Bay

This is a real estate development community. It’s still in the early stages of development and wasn’t really worth a stop. The tour is free, and supposedly there is a restaurant but we don’t know how they stay in business. We didn’t see a single resident, just maintenance workers. We did get to see a house owned by the Prime Minister of the Bahamas.

Dave and Paul at Schooner Bay

Sandy Point

Sandy Point lies at the southwest tip of Great Abaco. We didn’t find much to see here, other than Gorda Cay a.k.a Disney’s Castaway Cay off on the horizon. We tried to find something worth doing but came up blank. We read some articles about the town’s big plans for a new high speed ferry that would bring in bonefishing tourism – the articles were from 2007, so I’m guessing the recession squashed those plans. We passed a National Park en route to Sandy Point – habitat for the Bahamian parrot! – but the road into it is 4-wheel-drive only and rental cars are specifically not permitted to drive that road. It sounds like it could be fun to explore as there is a blue hole and a lighthouse.

Cruise ship at Disney’s Castaway Cay (Gorda Cay)

We had a great time exploring Great Abaco by car. We didn’t drive all the way to the northern towns, like Cooperstown and Foxtown – maybe we’ll catch those next time, or by boat.

With our road trip complete and one last night of conch fritters and lobster dinners to top it all off, it was sadly time to say goodbye to my dad. We dropped him off at the teeny tiny Treasure Cay airport before returning the rental car. Lindsey and I returned to the boat and readied it to go explore another island.

 

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Q&A for Newly Salted

Paul & Lindsey

This Q&A is intended to appear on the Newly Salted blog so its setup to fit their format. When soliciting questions for this article we received some additional questions from readers through Instagram and Facebook that will appear next week in a part 2 post. If you have any additional questions you would like to ask us please post as a comment below and we will make sure to answer next week.

  • What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn’t find to be true?
    • Paul: YouTube gave us the impression that there are a lot of young people cruising. In reality we don’t see very many people our age doing this sort of thing. Most people we see cruising are either retirement or early retirement age. When we do see young people they typically started cruising before establishing their careers. We haven’t really met anybody that has taken a break from traditional career paths like we have. Everybody we have met has been extremely nice though. Some people go cruising for the isolation but we really enjoy meeting new people, so if you see us out there stop by and say hi!
    • Lindsey: I had read a lot of stories that made it sound like every anchorage turned into a party or a potluck – as if you’d show up and instantly get a call over the radio to come join whatever is going on.  I have no doubt that these anchorages and people are out there, but like in normal life, most of the time you either end up chatting with the people you run into when you’re out and about (in the dinghy, on the beach or in the bar), or you really need to make the effort if you want to meet people other ways.
  • What is your biggest lesson learned? 
    • Paul: Can’t honestly say I’ve learned this lesson cause I will probably test it from time to time but it would be not to go to windward in bad weather. The sea is stronger than we are and it will win every time.  What’s comfortable on a down wind run can be downright treacherous close hauled. And motoring to weather, forget about it. Motoring is for when it’s calm, not for bashing into big seas. Sailboats just don’t have big enough engines to motor into weather.
    • Lindsey: What seems difficult or impossible now won’t stay that way. I mean this both physically and mentally. Like using the manual windlass – it’s amazing how quickly your body goes from feeling that pulling up 100 ft of chain is exhausting to feeling like it was barely a workout. On the mental side, things like route planning and navigation were overwhelming when added into everything else we had to think about as newbies, but now those things take a lot less time and we have better awareness of the details without it feeling like a mental overload.
  • What is the key to making the cruising life enjoyable? 
    • Paul: I had a job out of college sampling people’s water prior to natural gas drilling. One cold day in December I was in the house of this super nice elderly couple. While chatting the lady mentioned it was their 70th wedding anniversary. “Wow,” I remarked, “Whats your secret?” She leaned in real close and said,”If you’re gonna make it work, it takes a lot of give on both sides.”  I think this is the key is to both marriage and cruising; it takes a lotta give. The cruising lifestyle has no room for rigid and stubborn people; flexibility and balance are key to enjoying things.
    • Lindsey: A balance of enjoying the place you’re visiting and doing normal at-home things. It’s hard to remember sometimes this isn’t a normal “vacation” where I only have a few days to see and do everything. It’s ok to stay on the boat for day and just read, or do boat projects, or watch a movie – so make sure you are prepared to keep yourself busy (or not busy if you prefer) on these days. Recharge and then go hiking and snorkeling the next day.
  • What’s the most challenging thing about living on a sailboat? 
    • Paul: For me its the weather. On the whole the weather has  been spectacular, but there are some thunderstorms that come through on a fairly regular basis that can pack a real wallop. A lot of people stay at a dock or pick up a mooring for most of their season, but that’s not us. We like exploring, so to get to the best beaches, fishing and diving we are often times anchoring in less protected areas. We drew the short straw the other night when our anchor came loose. It was pitch black, the rain was horizontal, the anchorage was tight and there were lots of other boats around. There was also crazy thunder and lightning everywhere around us. We had no choice but to go on deck and reset the anchor in our underwear.
    • Lindsey: Hitting my head on things, knocking objects onto my feet, having to climb over another person to get into bed. As a short and small person, I’ve never had to be all that cognizant of my overhead and surrounding space, but now that I am living in a much smaller area, I am constantly finding the main hatch with my head and whatever is on the counter with my elbows. I’ve gotten a lot better than when we first bought the boat, but self-inflicted injuries are still a near-daily occurrence.
  • Whats the best thing about living on a sailboat?
    • Paul: For me without a doubt it’s the people we get to meet.  From the moment we bought the boat we have been surrounded by nice people with great stories. There is a real sense of community in the boating world. If you see us out and about say hi, we don’t bite.
    • Lindsey: Getting to sail! I’ve really liked sailing since the first time we took lessons, and now that we’re in the Bahamas, we’ve had some really great sails on windy days with easy routes. And since this is a full-time gig for now, we don’t have to play the awful game where we count how many boat weekends are left before winter and divide those up between boat project days and sailing days.
  • Do you ever get seasick?
    • Paul: I have in the past but not on Miss Fe. The first line of defense is picking good weather windows and staying hydrated. Though we didn’t have enough wind to sail the Gulf Stream, putting the sails up makes the boat much more smooth and easy on the stomach. We do carry a number of OTC and prescription drugs to help combat it. I personally take scopolamine patches as a preventative, but it’s a very unusual drug with some weird side effects.  Mahina Expeditions has a great article on seasickness worth a read. We apply most of their advice and have had good luck so far.
    • Lindsey:  I felt queasy on the Gulf Stream crossing, I think because it was rockiest at night, with no moon, so I couldn’t concentrate on any visuals. There are always moments down below, if the boat is rocking, where I suddenly feel off if I’m trying to do too much while facing different ways (like digging through the bottom of the fridge, then facing the opposite way at the stove, then facing backwards at the sink).
  • Do you catch a lot of fish?
    • Paul: I wouldn’t say the fishing has been great but we always seem to catch something when we go out. Haven’t had very good luck locating good-sized fish as they seem to be in deeper water and the geography here makes it very hard for use to get out far enough offshore in our dinghy to catch them.
    • Lindsey: I’m usually rigged up for smaller fish than Paul, so I tend to catch more. Ha! We’ve caught a bunch of little snappers and bait fish.
  • Are you running low on sunscreen?
    • Paul: Lindsey goes through the stuff like water. Thankfully we found a reasonable source that sells it by the gallon, no joke. In 3 months we have gone through a half gallon of this stuff Rocky Mountain Sunscreen – Kids, Gallon, SPF 50, Spray. We do take sun protection seriously and always have sunblock with us as well hats, buffs, and UPF rated clothing.
    • Lindsey: There’s probably not enough sunscreen in the world for me. There’s a reason my nickname is “pants-on-the-beach!”
  • As you started cruising, what transitions did you find most difficult?
    • Paul: Due to the location of the boat and its proximity to our jobs, I spent a lot of long nights away from Lindsey working on the boat. It wasn’t easy and isn’t something I would want to do again, but it got us here. Downsizing and moving out of our apartment was also particularly challenging. The best thing we did was move out of our apartment and downsize to move in with family 6 months ahead of living on the boat. Still rough but it was less of a shock to our systems.
    • Lindsey: I think it’s hard to always be around people who don’t really know you. It’s fun to meet new people, but since it’s our first season out and we’re constantly moving, it’s ONLY meeting new people. We are meeting people we will stay in touch with and will see again, but until then, I miss the experience of having enough time to bond with people.
  • What did you do to make your dream a reality?  
    • Lindsey: I’ll let Paul answer this one, but I just want to say that Paul generally does what he says he’s going to do, and whenever he gets into something, he really gets into it. If you think what he is saying sounds crazy and like he’ll never do it, you don’t know Paul.
    • Paul: I’m going to leave financials out of this because I feel thats its own post but I got the idea while watching the documentary Maidentrip on Netflix one night in August a few years back. After watching I looked and Lindsey and said, “This girl did it right! If a 16 year old girl can go around the world, we can at least make it to the Bahamas on a boat. Besides we can take the ICW and not even have to sail most of the way!” I  next did some more research and scoured the internet to find out how much it would cost. Lindsey is naturally suspicious of everything, so I knew I would need to make a strong case that this was financially feasible. That’s when I found the Bumfuzzle blog. Lindsey and I both read every entry for their circumnavigation, which gave us a big confidence boost. Probably about 3 months had gone by and Lindsey, while somewhat onboard with the idea, was not very sure about it since she had never actually sailed before. Logically thinking, I said we could take some ASA (American Sailing Association) courses in the summer. Over the winter I read every how to boat book I could find and by spring we were on the Delaware River learning to sail in ASA 101. After the first 2 day course Lindsey wanted a small boat of her own, so we searched Craigslist on the drive home and two days later we were proud owners of an AMF Alcort 14 catamaran. We sailed the cat in a nearby state park over the summer.  We took ASA 103 later in the summer, and in the fall we stumbled upon Miss Fe. She was the first big boat we seriously looked at and seemed to fit the bill for what we wanted at a price we could afford so we bought her. Those ASA courses didn’t do a very good job of preparing us, especially since there was no wind during either course but we managed to move the boat up the bay . Thankfully after re-rigging the boat we hired our riggers Walden Rigging to take us out and show us how to sail our boat in some proper wind. Additionally I raced a summer on the Chesepeake with the totally awesome crew of Split Decision. To sum it all up, we set our minds to the dream and just refused to quit.
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West End to Allans Pensacola: God’s Swimming Pool

Miss Fe Sailing

Paul and Lindsey in West End Bahamas!

After a good night’s rest, it was up to me as captain to go ashore at Old Bahama Bay resort and clear customs. I also had a side mission to obtain a BTC sim card for our cell phone. Under Bahamas rules, only the captain of the vessel is allowed ashore to clear customs, so this was to be a solo mission. I launched my inflatable NRS kayak and began a rather long paddle to shore. The distance was short, only a few hundred yards, but the current was extremely strong and I was paddling dead against it to avoid being swept out to sea. My trouble was that the closer I got to shore the stronger the current got.

Eventually after a good morning workout, I made it to the beach and put my feet down into baby blue water and soft fluffy pink sand. “Paradise at last!” I thought to myself.  Nobody was on the beach so I walked slowly towards the marina, taking in the beauty of the morning and the accomplishment I had just made. I asked the dockmaster and he quickly pointed me towards the customs building. Lindsey had done our research and I was prepared with:

  • Passports for each person on board.
  • USCG documentation (state registration ok if not documented)
  • Bahamas Customs clearance form which can be found here if needed.
  • Cold hard cash sufficient to cover entry and duty fees. It’s $350 for boats over 35 ft and $150 for boats under 35 ft. Bring at least $350 because we have heard rumors of boats between 30-35 ft being charged $350.

Having my documents in order, I entered a hectic room with half a dozen or so customs officials and numerous fishermen. I smiled and went to the first person that was open. He looked some things over and then left. “Ok..,” I thought. A few minutes later a lady came over and started signing papers and asked me to pay the cashier.  I requested a spearfishing endorsement which is supposed to be free and provided on the cruising permit but she flat out told me no spearfishing (and we’re still not sure why – everyone else we’ve met got theirs). “Bummer,” I thought but at least I was charged only 150 for our documented 33 ft boat which was awesome as I have heard rumors others were charged more. The lady then handed over my cruising permit and said I was good to go.

“Thank you” I said “but don’t you want to stamp the passports?”. She looked at me puzzled for a moment then snatched the papers out of my hand.

“You didn’t see the lady and the other side of the counter first?”  she barked.

“No,” I  replied sheepishly.

“Go see her, and when your passports are stamped you can have your papers back,” she ordered.

Thinking myself a fool for cutting inline I gave my surroundings a good study as I walked over. All the uniforms were the same as best I could tell, there was no sign saying start here, and no line of any kind. How was I supposed to know where to start? Filling out the immigration cards went quickly though. They are the only thing that can’t be filled out in advance as they are carbon copies. With passports stamped I quickly collected my paperwork before anybody changed their minds.

Next I walked into the marina store and asked for a BTC sim card. “Sure,” said the cashier, ringing me up and handing me the card. Then another cashier chimed in and told me I couldn’t have it because they couldn’t sell me the minutes. “Can’t I just buy them off the BTC website?” I asked. “Nope,” was the reply as the card was snatched from me and my money returned. “Yikes, between spearfishing endorsement and sim cards people are kinda picky about making up their own rules around here,” I thought as I pushed the kayak back into the water for a rather quick drift back to Miss Fe.

There isn’t really much in West End worth seeing so we hauled anchor and with no wind in sight motored onto the Little Bahama Bank. The first couple miles were through a somewhat narrow channel but it quickly opened up. The little Bahama Bank is really quite interesting topographically speaking. It’s a rather large area ~50 x ~30 miles, but it’s very shallow, rarely exceeding 20 ft deep. It’s more similar to sailing protected waters of a large bay, like say the Chesapeake, except most of the bank has little to no land bordering it. On a clear calm day in the middle of the bank, you cannot see land in any direction but you can see straight to the bottom as if it were a swimming pool in your backyard. We were in awe. After a while I turned to Lindsey and said “I’ve never seen anything like this; it must be God’s swimming pool”.

Little Bahama Bank
Gods Swimming Pool

It was in fact so clear that we could even see starfish on the bottom as we passed by.

Starfish on little Bahama Bank
Starfish!

It was a rather quiet day as we all sat on different parts of the boat quietly taking in what we had accomplished. The crossing had been tiring, weather and other obstacles were no doubt ahead of us, but it didn’t matter. All that mattered was the moment we were in and trying to soak up as much of it as possible before it disappeared.

As dusk came we anchored at a small island called Mangrove Cay. It wasn’t very inviting so we payed it little attention. In the morning we pulled out our charts and decided to attempt to get to Walker’s Cay some 20 miles to our north. Walker’s Cay is unique for several reasons. It’s the northernmost island in all of the Bahamas and while once a thriving marina and resort, it now lies in a state of abandonment listed for sale since a hurricane forced its closure in 2004. It was also well known for shark diving and big game fishing.

Little Bahama Bank
Quiet day bound for Walkers Cay

The sail towards Walkers was great. For one thing, it was the first time we had the sails up since NC (2.5 months earlier!). In addition, we had great wind and with the genny up we were regularly making 6-7 knots. We also had some visitors: With no land in sight, a little bird landed on deck to keep Dave company for a while, and we also spotted our first Bahamian dolphin.

Little Bahama Bank Sailing
Dolphin

As we approached the old channel to the abandoned Walkers Cay Marina I had a change of heart. It was narrow, hadn’t been maintained in over a decade and just gave me a bad feeling. With nobody else in love with the looks of it, we diverted over to Grand Cay, just miles to the south, which has become the northernmost settlement in the Bahamas with Walker’s closure. We arrived at Grand Cay in time to bust our the dingy for the first time and take a quick evening trip ashore. We didn’t even bother to bring a camera, thinking we would be back the next day. We (well, Lindsey and I) had a good laugh on the way to town as Dave’s clean shorts got soaked with water. Note: Don’t put the big guy on the bow of the dinghy!

What we found on Grand Cay was a real slice of “the old Bahamas.” A small community of ~400 people. No ferries or airports service the town so the only visitors come by boat. The docks looked run down but were full of fishermen returning from a day out. The streets are uneven cement wide enough for one golf cart to pass. The beer was reasonable at $3 and it was our first taste of some very fine seafood salad (in the Bahamas seafood salad, or conch salad, is very similar to ceviche but without chips and often with the addition of orange juice. As with ceviche the seafood is raw.) The bar (an outdoor gazebo with picnic tables and the salad cart nearby) was hopping with locals of all ages – one guy told us Sundays are family days. Dave and Lindsey made a point of walking the town and were not disappointed when they found waffle cones filled with bourbon cherry and rum raisin ice cream at a little shop.

On the dinghy ride out of town, we made Lindsey sit up front. It was starting to get dark but we saw the silhouette of something rise out of the water a few yards ahead of the boat. We were trying to figure out what it was, when all of a sudden – SPLASH! – Lindsey got drenched. I quickly diverted my light to identify the culprit, and lit up the beautiful spots of 2 eagle rays swimming by!

When morning came I was up at 6:30 to listen to Chris Parker’s SSB weather broadcast. Since I wasn’t able to procure a sim card yet, it was our only source of weather and the forecast wasn’t good. Chris was calling for a gale out of the west in less than two days time. We were anchored completely exposed to west winds so I quickly shook Lindsey awake. “We gotta go babe, can’t stay here!”

As we got breakfast going we poured over every anchorage for 30 miles. Westerly protection was very hard to come by. As morning drew on we tried several anchorages around Grand Cay but the holding was no good. We even assembled our storm anchor, a Fortress FX-37 as big as Lindsey but it wouldn’t hold in the grassy seabeds. Disappointed, we agreed to set sail for Great Sale Cay 20 miles to our south. On the way there still wasn’t much wind but we did manage to motorsail and find a  4+ft loggerhead sea turtle to keep us company.

Loggerhead Seaturtle

Great Sale Cay is a large island in the middle of the Little Bahama Bank. Though there are some 1960’s ruins, it is completely undeveloped with the only visitors being boats looking for safe harbor. Thankfully it offers two large harbors with westerly protection, just what we needed.

Zodiac Cadet Aero
Paul playing on the Zodiac

The next day was clear as forecast and we took full advantage snorkeling and walking the remote beaches before the storm set in. We saw sting rays, barracuda, snapper, jacks, and various little tropical fish. As the day progressed, about half a dozen boats arrived to take cover with us. We made a good call with Great Sale as it provided cover while we were pinned down for the next day. By the third night the winds had subsided a little down to about 20 knots and we were up for an island with a bit of nightlife!

Paul picking our next destination!

Talking with a little catamaran named Toucan they had great things to say about Allans Pensacola Cay and Green Turtle Cay. We wanted to go directly to Green Turtle since it is populated but figured it was too far so we made a stopover at Allans Pensacola. With the strong winds we had a very enjoyable sail.

Dave enjoying our first good sail in the Bahamas.

Good to have the sails up.

Our time on Allans Pensacola was short but we did have time to hike across the island to the famous signing tree, where visitors leave dated signs with the names of vessel and crew. We hunted for the remnants of the US Missile Tracking Station that was once on the island, but found only the asphalt of a former road.

The signs marking the trail head. Always a day too early for the free beer!

Dave checking out the Signing Tree at Allans Pensacola.

Paul enjoying the signing tree beach at Allans Pensacola

The next day we were up early and bound for the civilization of Green Turtle Cay.

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Bahamas Bound: Sailing Across to the Gulf Stream

Gulf Stream Crossing
The three musketeers ready for a Gulf Stream Crossing

We had a fun filled week at Cooley’s Landing. We made new sailor friends, tried out all the local sailor bars, and got to spend time with our Florida family. We also completed some minor projects (like replacing a hose for the head, oh joy!). On the down side we were boarded by an infamous pirate, no joke. We threatened trial and hanging, but he insisted he was just inspecting our vessel for stowaways prior to departure.

Cat boards sailboat at Cooley's Landing
Pirate on board!

Told you he was an infamous pirate

All joking aside we enjoyed our time at Cooleys Landing immensely and had made some good friends while there, but Ft. Lauderdale was a pit stop for us, not a destination.

While at Cooleys we would wake up at 630 am every day to listen to Chris Parker’s weather forecast. Chris broadcasts forecasts  for the Bahamas and Caribbean via SSB (marine shortwave radio). These forecasts are extremely detailed and tailored towards boaters. He charges a fee if you would like to ask questions but you can otherwise listen for free. We listened each morning only to be disappointed with large seas and high winds forecasts. Finally on March 12 Chris mentioned things might be calming down later in the week. I scoured my usual sources for weather (Windy and NOAA) and it looked like there would indeed be a possible break in the weather. Normally this would have been enough but several other factors came into play, which made us take our weather forecasting up a notch.

  1. The Gulf stream is a strong north flowing current that we would have to spend a significant amount of time in. If weather conditions aren’t right, it can be down right horrible in any size boat.
  2. My dad David would be coming down to give us a hand with the crossing and spend a couple weeks exploring. He was buying a last minute plane ticket so any delay in our departure would mean less time in the Bahamas for him.
  3. It was our first “ocean” crossing and we wanted a smooth ride (can you blame us after the fun we had in the chesapeake?)

With all this in mind, I sent off a quick email to the folks at Weather Routing Inc (WRI) asking for a custom forecast for the weekend, using a coupon we had received at the Annapolis boat show. WRI has a team a meteorologists forecasting marine weather around the globe 24/7/365 for everything from small boats like us to giant oil tankers. Within hours they provided us with a very detailed report, which you can download here.  They also offer  phone consultations, which we will probably try out when we return to Florida. I can’t recommend WRI enough if you are taking a long passage and need really accurate weather information. With the forecast being excellent I made a quick call to my dad and told him to buy his ticket since we would be leaving Friday morning at about 1:00 am.

A small portion of Miss Fe’s provisions

After a not-so-quick trip to Walmart and the largest grocery bill either of us had ever had, we were set to go – except we could not depart directly from Cooley’s Landing due to the extreme currents that had already rattled us getting in. So Wednesday afternoon we ran the New River gauntlet but this time we were a bit wiser than last time. We waited until the current was completely slack and then went for it. We cleared the first bridge with ease but just as we did the blasted railroad bridge closed on us. We were trapped again between two bridges.

We were treading water when a mega yacht crackled on the radio that they were coming through the first bridge. “Lindsey, starboard tie,” I hollered.

“What?” she said, “We’re doing great right here.”

“Time to play it safe. There is a beautiful public dock we can tie off to and avoid playing bumper boats again.” So we tied off and waited.  By the time the damn railroad bridge opened, we were in the company of 2 very large mega yachts. Since we were docked we passed through the bridge last. The yacht in front of us told the next bridge operator that we would like to pass as well, and the bridgetender replied he would “clear traffic and get it open in a moment.”  This is the same 300 yard section we had trouble in last time. Not trusting that “in a moment” meant any short length of time, I yelled, “Port Tie, Port Tie,” and we tied up to a random restaurant’s dock, nervous to be here again but safe and undamaged.

We waited and waited for the bridge opening, and as we did, a very large sportfisher (~70-80) also pulled in behind us to wait.  “What the hell is wrong with these bridge operators? We have 4 boats crammed in with probably less than a 100 feet between us. Are they trying to cause an accident?” I said to Lindsey. Luckily all 3 of the other boats were equipped with bow/ stern thrusters so they managed to hold position without hitting anything. It was without a doubt some of the best maneuvering I have ever seen any boat do let alone 3 at once. After another 20 minutes of sitting tight, the bridge opened, we pushed off the dock and we were free at last, sort of.

Our anchorage options were pretty bad in Ft. Lauderdale, with only 2 options. We choose Lake Sylvia which is less than a mile from New River. Boats were crammed in like sardines, and it was the tightest we have ever anchored. We set our anchor alarm for a distance so short that inevitably even a small windshift would set off  the alarm, making for a long night. But the boat was safe and we were ready to cross, except we still were missing a crew member.

Due to work commitments, my dad David left TN Thursday afternoon  after we were already anchored out. Not wanting to setup our dinghy only to have to take it apart again, we asked our friend Ryan at Cooley’s if he would be willing to shuttle David out to us in his rather spiffy 20hp dinghy. Ryan quickly agreed, and on arrival David found him at the marina ready to go.

They bailed the recent rainwater out and started up the dinghy, going about 100 ft before it died. Again and again, they kept starting it only to go a few hundred feet before it died. After about an hour I texted David, “Everything ok?” to which he replied,”Motor trouble”. Uh oh, I thought, swift current and no motor would make for a bad ride. Luckily they troubleshot that the fuel pickup was not doing its job so my dad had to tip the half empty tank at an angle for the duration of his trip. After a 5:30 am start to his day in TN, our third and final crew member was onboard at 8:00 pm,  just 3.5 hours before out departure time. We had a beer, swapped some stories, and tried to get about an hour nap.

At 11:30 pm I turned on the radio and woke everybody up to The Struts “Could Have Been Me”, followed by some CCR, Zac Brown Band, and Chris Janson. We rushed to complete our final preparations, determined to get the anchor up before midnight, while it was still Thursday – it’s considered bad luck to leave for a passage on a Friday.

Everybody was in good spirits and ready for a 12 hour ~70NM ride to West End, The Bahamas. The anchor came up without issue, the motor started right up as usual, and we glided out of the overcrowded anchorage with a smart look on our face. “This is going to be a piece of cake” we thought.

We had one drawbridge to clear, but with a closed vertical clearance of 55 ft, we wouldn’t need it to open. To be on the safe side,  Lindsey called the bridge well in advance asking to confirm the height. The bridge replied, “Due to insurance reasons, I cannot tell you. You’ll have to read the gauge on right side of the span.” Laughing, Lindsey pulled out the binoculars and waited until we were close enough to read the gauge – 56 ft – full steam ahead!

Thirty minutes after departing the anchorage, we were exiting Port Everglade. The sky ahead was dark and full of stars while the city lit up the horizon behind us. There was very little boat traffic, and we were relieved that there were no large commercial vessels nearby. Gentle 3 ft rollers started to rock the boat back and forth, and our speed under motor dropped into the 3-4 knot range. With only 18 hp but 28,000 lbs, even relatively calm seas can slow our boat down when motoring.

A couple miles offshore as the lights of Ft. Lauderdale were fading, I sent Lindsey below to take the first break. Shortly thereafter I noticed the engine temp was climbing higher than I like, and we were making black smoke. Not good, but its hard to get the prop pitch right at night when everything is dark. I adjusted it as best I could and gave everyone strict orders to check the temp at least every 15 minutes.

Now this would have been the time to put up our sails and make 6-7 knots, but we had one little problem. We were so focused on a smooth crossing that we picked a day with smooth seas but no wind. I mean nothing. There was so little wind it would have been completely hopeless trying to fill a sail with it. Before I went down at the end of my first shift I looked at the ETA on the GPS. It said 7 PM arrival. Not possible, I thought. At daybreak the winds will set in, we will kick some ass and be having conch fritters by noon. Not so, my friends, not so. As a side note, the stars were incredible as the lights of Florida faded and the flying fish were out in force. It was spectacularly beautiful calm night. Sometime during the early morning  hours we entered the gulf stream. The motor was running as hot as I would tolerate, but at least it was holding steady.

Lindsey’s notes: After a couple hours of sleep, I donned my harness, clipped myself into the cockpit, and took the helm so Dave could rest below and Paul could have a break from steering.  The watch schedule we had decided on was 2 people on watch at all times, rotating a person out to rest every 2 hours (which means your watch shift was 4 hours). Even though the swell was small, the boat was rocking pretty good and it’s hard to quell the queasiness in the dark without a horizon to look at it. My watch consisted of steering, hopping up every few minutes to do a 360 check for other boats, and counting down the time until there would be light. My biggest concern for this trip was ships, but luckily we saw very few, and the ones we did see were far off and heading away from us. We were running a bit north of our rhumb line, but Paul warned me not to steer too far east while we were still in the Gulf Stream as our speed would drop below 2 knots if I did, and at this point we were still hoping to make it the The Bahamas before sunset!

Gulf Stream sailboat crossing
Morning in the Gulf Stream

Finally, when I started my second shift, daylight had arrived. Yet there was still no wind. The windex (wind direction indicator) spun slowly in circles, aimless.  Lindsey kept an eye on the wind generator, hoping for any sign that we might get to sail, but the generator’s blades remained still for the rest of the trip.

Glancing off the bow I noticed scattered but frequent clumps of sargasso seaweed. I hoped, in vain, that a Tuna or Mahi would be hanging around one of the larger clumps. I dragged a lure behind the boat on a handline and even detoured towards the weeds a couple times hoping for a bite.

To my surprise I also noticed many Portuguese man-o-war, a pretty jellyfish-like creature that looks like a floating blue balloon and packs one hell of a sting. No swimming in the gulf for us today, I thought. As the day drew on we all took naps and had a few snacks. Without sails up, the boat was a bit rolly and nobody had much appetite for more than ginger ale and crackers. It was beautiful out there though and a nice break from the hustle and bustle of South Florida. The feeling of adventure was setting in for all of us. Hour after hour went by, and there was nothing but deep blue water to keep us company.

Finally late in the afternoon we spotted the water tower at Old Bahama Bay Resort. Since the weather was forecast to be calm for the next few days, we anchored  outside the marina in a rather exposed anchorage, just as the sun was setting. 19 hours had passed since we raised our anchor in Florida but it was so worth it – we made it to the Bahamas!

Land ho!

The next day, despite the ridiculously strong current in the anchorage, I dove in with a snorkel to see if a fouled prop had caused  the engine to run hot. It was clean as a whistle. Going to the next option, I checked the strainer sure enough it was partially clogged. Note to self: check the strainer, check the strainer, check the strainer….

 

 

 

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What Its Like to Quit Your Job to Pursue a Dream

Lindsey and I moments before departing on the first leg of the trip.

It was about a three-year process from the time I got the idea to sail off into a Bahamian sunset to the time I actually quit my job. All the while both our careers kept getting better and better, making the idea of quitting harder and harder. Luckily both Lindsey and I were steadfast in our commitment to make it to the Bahamas.

The act of quitting one’s job is a whole lot easier than one might think. In my case it was a somewhat awkward 5 minute conversation with a boss who had taken very good care of me over the past 5 years. Was it comfortable? No way. Did I feel like I was letting down my colleagues? Absolutely. Did the thought cross my mind that this was the single dumbest idea I have come up with? You bet it did.  Was I scared? Yep, change is scary, especially big changes.

There was another thought though and it was this. If I don’t do this now, what will I think of myself 10 years from now when I look back? That is a reality I couldn’t live with.

While the actual act of quitting was fairly easy, the mental aspect was very hard to swallow. I knew from hiking that setting out into the unknown was about the scariest thing I was capable of doing to myself (also the most rewarding). As such we made plans almost a year in advance to try to the make the transition as smooth as possible. A full 6 months before departure we sold off most of our belongings, and I moved onto the boat while Lindsey moved in with her parents. To keep our sanity I would spend a night or two a week with Lindsey at her parents, and she would spend weekends with me on the boat. (Shout out to Lindsey’s parents for all the help they provided during this transitional phase).  The idea behind this strategy was that we didn’t want to be closing out our apartment and trying to prep boat at the same time. I think we made the right decision, but it was still a rough process prepping the boat and getting rid of things. After I quit my job I literally had 1 week to make final preparations on the boat before we left. It was stressful to say the least. We spent two weeks moving the boat south to New Bern NC which went pretty well despite some hiccups. I enjoyed the company of friends and the progress we were making. After the two weeks was up Lindsey went back to work, and I went to TN to flip a house with my dad.

While I enjoyed the time with my parents immensely, the insanity of our plans really started taking a toll on me. It was the first time in a long time I had a dark cloud hanging over me. I knew it was irrational and illogical but I couldn’t shake it. I felt like I was flying too close to the sun. After several days of feeling very down, I opened up and started talking to my loved ones. Nobody “solved it” for me and it didn’t just go away, but just the act of talking about it seemed to make things a bit better. A few positive words from a loved one goes a long way. During this rough time I read an interview with Michael Phelps. “It’s OK to not be OK,” he said, talking about the severe depression he would encounter after the Olympic games. Reading that quote “its OK to not be ok” from somebody of Phelps’s character really put my mind at ease.  My Dad also had great piece of advice: when you feel like shit just turn on some Bob Marley and it will be alright. Accepting that the dark cloud was there but would pass, along with a healthy dose of Bob Marley, seemed to take care of it.

Being reunited with Lindsey and Miss Fe in early February was wonderful and has been pretty great since.

I know that another dark cloud will come with my name on it. Life gets us all down from time to time. The more you ask from life the harder its going to bite back occasionally but its worth pushing through; the grass is greener on the other side.

Quitting any job is hard. Quitting to pursue a dream is really hard. You shouldn’t expect it to be all fun and games. It’s going to be an adventure and adventures always have their ups and downs. My advice: take a deep breath, talk candidly with your family/friends and maybe put on a little Bob Marley. If you’re still looking for more checkout the book section on our Things We Love Page. A lot of them have some great advice for getting out of a rut.

Stuck in Dismal Swamp Lock
Pulling Miss Fe into the Dismal Swamp lock, through the thick, thick duckweed. Sailing isn’t always easy.

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Stingrays, Manatees, and Golf Cart Shenanigans from Port Royal, SC to Pompano Beach, FL

The daily dolphin sightings continued into the busy part of Florida. My favorite part was when they’d pop up right beside the cockpit and breathe out a loud “Pfft!” – this usually startled Paul and he’d jump, then I’d laugh.

Paul thinks he can just relax in the cockpit….

… but they’re always lurking nearby.

 

Our next stop was Jekyll Island, GA. We’d heard about it from our riggers/friends Dobbs and Suzanne at Walden Rigging, who told us about the restored historic homes there. At some point on our trip, I saw an ad for the marina mentioning golf carts and bicycles – I told Paul we had to go!

We were aware that to get to the marina, we would have to scoot by the state’s sketchiest shallow spot in Jekyll Creek. Early in the day, we were looking good for an arrival prior to sunset and several hours prior to low tide. However, by the time we had the tip of the island in sight, we were a little behind schedule, and to make matters worse, the current, wind and waves were starting to work against us. I recalculated our ETA as we slowed to 3.5 knots, and it wasn’t looking good. On top of that, the marina hadn’t actually answered the phone or returned our calls.

I looked at Paul and asked him what he wanted to do. There was a possible anchorage at the northern end of the island that we could pull into, instead of pressing our luck. We both knew this was the better decision, even if it meant skipping this stop altogether to stay on schedule. I tried to sound honest and reassuring as I told him safety was more important than…. golf carts and Rockefeller homes.  He sighed, sensing my true desire for adventure, and said, “Let’s do this. I promised you those damned golf carts!”

Luckily, the marina answered our next call and told us to stay 30-45 feet off of marker 19. I checked the map and saw, based on that advice, that we’d be staying to the left to avoid the sediment that a side stream was dumping into the right side of the channel.

Unfortunately, we weren’t gaining any speed. We would now be arriving after dark and at low tide. As we passed the jetties at the creek’s entrance, we still had enough sunlight to identify the rocks we didn’t want to hit. Darkness set in just as we spotted marker 19 up ahead. We shined the spotlight on it and lined ourselves up to pass at the specified distance. We watched the depth drop on the chartplotter – 6 feet, 4 feet, 2 feet… we were crawling at barely 2 knots and holding our breaths… 1.5 feet below the keel… when it dropped below 1 foot I looked away and braced for impact.

“It’s going up!” cheered Paul, who had the guts to still be watching the numbers.  Astonished and relieved not to be spending the night stuck in the mud, I prepped the dock lines. We had an easy end spot on the dock, but the marina was nearly adjacent to a bridge, limiting our room for maneuvers. Luckily, a couple ran over to assist us and pulled us safely to the dock.

“Good thing I grew out this beard,” Paul said to me, “because we just made it here by the hair on my chin!”

A bit amped up by the close call, we decided to walk into town. Jekyll is a cool place. Though touristy, the town has sidewalks and Adirondack chairs under palm trees all along the beach. The next day we borrowed bikes from the marina to head into the historical part of town – the restored vacation homes of America’s railroad tycoons and other such rich folk. Apparently those aspiring to be like that still come here – We saw people dressed in all white playing a serious game of croquet on the green front lawn of the clubhouse (where it would have cost the two of us $80 for brunch). We then borrowed the marina’s golf cart to tour the whole island.

Jekyll Island – our first beach stop of the trip!

Jekyll Island Historic District

Jekyll Island Historic District – lovely by bike or by golf cart!

Ready to explore Jekyll Island by golf cart

Croquet on the front lawn – for real?!

I had been nervous about 9 foot tides in Georgia, but with low tide hitting when we usually weren’t traveling, Georgia ended up being much more relaxing than expected.

Foggy sunrise near Savannah, GA

Savannah River – First cargo ship we’d had to dodge since leaving the Chesapeake.

White pelicans in the marshes of Georgia – when our boat would approach, they would take off flying in neat formation. Of course when I had my camera ready, they just hid in the grass instead of flying.

More waterfront mansions

A foggy day on the ICW

Fisherman near an inlet in Georgia

The whole trip had been very calm as far as boat traffic, so it was Daytona before things started to get busy with other sailors, fishermen, tour boats, and jet skis.  At one point, I stood up to watch some boats passing in front of us and I see a STINGRAY leap out of the water!

I thought that was the best thing ever until the next day in the Haulover Canal when we topped it. The guide book said “lots and lots of manatees” in this area, to which I said, “Yeah, right, we’ll never see them.” But there they were, a huge group of manatees beside the canal, popping out of the water to eat leaves off the bushes. They were all over the canal, just floating along. We also saw our first sea turtle and an island full of all sorts of birds.

I’m so ridiculously excited about this manatee coming up for a snack, I can’t even explain.

Osprey on the ICW

Is that a scarlet ibis?!

Ok, not birds, but a flock of skydivers still counts, right?

After this the water finally started to turn get bluer. We tried to go to a snorkel park near North Palm Beach but the visibility was awful, so instead I walked 20 minutes across a bridge to get a pizza, since we hadn’t had pizza since New Bern. SO WORTH IT.

It’s funny being in Florida though. In the southern states, people were so polite on the water and on the radio. Here it’s a rude free-for-all. People yelling at each other on the radio. Coast guard scolding people for using channel 16 incorrectly. Huge power boats ripping by with giant wakes. No more pre-tied lines and fenders at the fuel docks. It doesn’t bother us much, but the contrast is just starting.

(Feb 21-Mar 6 – by Lindsey)

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Sailing the Chesapeake Bay: Baltimore to Herrington Harbour – Free at last

It was a very brisk friday night in November. The kind where you curl up by the fire with a hot chocolate. But for our rowdy gang of bay pirates it was time for adventure, time to tackle the Chesapeake Bay and the ICW after 2 years of boat work. The plan was simple: Lindsey and I had 2 weeks to get the boat as far south as possible. Our awesome friends and racing buddies Jace and Stanley were joining us for the first weekend so we could tackle the Chesapeake Bay in a nonstop fashion. However, the weather had other plans for us.

Lindsey, Paul, and Miss Fe – ready to roll!

We had said we would postpone the trip if wind was supposed to be over 30 knots. Predictions for Saturday were 20 knots out of the south, so we moved up our departure to Friday night to try to make progress before the opposing winds hit us.

The crew ready to depart Middle River: (clockwise) Lindsey, Jace, Stanley, and Paul

We started out around 9pm in a flat calm. Lindsey and Stanley took the first shift uneventfully. Minimal waves and wind presented them with no challenges. They watched out for ships – it is amazing how a big ship is so dimly lit – in a city with lots of lights on land, you are likely to notice the ships, not by their navigation lights, but by their silhouettes blocking the lights behind them. They guided Miss Fe under a side span of the bay bridge while a tug and barge glided through the center span. By the time their shift ended at 2am we were just south of Annapolis.

The weather was beginning to deteriorate with strong southerly winds and building seas. We knew we would be doing some bashing but figured we might still be able to make some mileage south. Jace and I took the helm making about 4.5 knots, but over the next 4 hours we watched our boat speed drop to 1.5 knots and the waves increased to the point they were almost stopping our progress altogether. Stanley and Lindsey were a sight for sore eyes at 6 am quickly helping us get up the mainsail to give us more boat speed. Jace and I retired below, half frozen and happy for some relief from the 25 knot winds.

Lindsey and Stanley listened to the updated weather report, which predicted gale force winds the next day, and they started to look for places to stop in the next few hours, knowing there was no way we could or should continue to Norfolk. As the waves continued to build I found myself catching air off my mattress every time we hit the peak of a wave. Surprisingly, despite the air time, I remained in one place and didn’t get banged up smashing into the walls.

Sleep didn’t come easily though and we were quickly awoken around 9am to very concerned shouting and a cabin quickly filling with thick black diesel smoke. Running towards the cockpit, I was surprised to see the engine still running and quickly ordered it be shutdown for fear we were having an engine room fire. As soon as the engine shut down we determined there was no fire just lots of smoke from the exhaust and an overheated engine. Without time to troubleshoot all hands were on deck to deploy our staysail and keep the boat moving. This was easier said than done as the waves were approaching 7′ and extremely close together with winds around 25 knots but Lindsey and Stanley did a superb job while Jace and I took the helm.

With sails up we managed, after several tries, to get ahold of SeaTow. We were only about 5 miles from the nearest marina but the SeaTow captain advised us that even our 4 ft draft might be too much there. Seatow advised we head to Herrington Harbor where they would give us a tow into a slip. By this time we had slipped behind a fishing wier and misread the depth on our plotter. We did our best to tack around the wier but found ourselves unable to tack with that much wind. After three gybes that all lost us ground, we took a much closer look at the plotter which revealed the “5” (feet) we thought we saw was indeed the letter “S” (days later we figured out this meant sand, whoopsie). Not knowing what S meant we decided to head for it and find out since our only other option to keep from running aground on a lee shore at that point was to drop our storm anchor. We went for it and actually had what would have been a great sail across the bay if not for the fear of what might have happened to our precious 18hp SABB diesel engine. The anticipation was too great for Jace and he graciously volunteered to head below and troubleshoot. After a few minutes he popped his head into the cockpit and held up a pulley. “hey know what this goes to” he asked. In dismay I replied “yes the raw water pump”.

Seatow met us as planned and quickly got us into the harbor where it didn’t take us long to realize we were at the biggest and nicest marina any of us had ever seen. Despite our concerns about the engine, hot showers were determined to be highest priorty and boy did we enjoy the plush showers we found. After shower, beer, and street tacos we settled into the engine work. Turns out the the pulley had no key but merely a set screw holding it to the water pump shaft. This set screw came loose and the pulley literally flew off the engine. This stopped all raw water cooling instantly which caused our Vetus waterlock muffler to melt in several places spewing copious amounts of diesel exhaust, water and melted plastic all over the engine room.

After a night of beer and dark and stormies, Jace and Stanley got picked by a friend on Sunday. I went along to bring down my truck from Middle River, knowing I would probably need it to get repair parts.

I ended up spending several days trying to procure the new Vetus waterlock. Despite the Vetus warehouse being less than an hours drive they would not let me pick it up at their facility despite my begging and pleading. Fortunately we met Karl of Karls’ Marine Engine Service in the Harrington Harbor office late one evening and hearing our story he went ahead and called in a favor to the local sales rep who delivered the part to a local chandlery the next day. We can’t thank Karl enough for his help and highly recommend him if you are in the Annapolis area.